Chilled

DARJEELING

Brown toast, Darjeeling still socked-in (soqued? sock-ed?) despite a night sky that boded better things and I'm soon off to Sikkim. Can only clear as I descend down through the tea into the valley, the riverbed of the Teesta and then spiral up again to Gangtok.

Further proof that this place is cold and ever-damp. The puddle from yesterday's shower remains, unchanged on my bathroom floor this morning. Yesterday's towel remains cold damp and my washcloth needed a ziploc to pack amongst other things.
Now do you believe? And during the monsoon I imagine what's wet stays wet for the duration.

Spoke to little Hope in gangtok (Hope Cooke's daughter) yesterday and all is set for my arrival. She's arranged to have my Sikkim permit waiting in Rongpo (the border) so should be a smooth trip up. And she's booked me into the fanciest hotel in town. Just one night- will air and dry and shave and clean and then go back to chillier quarters I think. And then begin to trek...

Had an amazing day here yesterday- walks out to the viewing points, up and around past the Governor's House, down past the market, toured through the Windermere Hotel and admired the framed bar chits of famous guests, black and white photos and hissing coal fires. Lots of photos with new camera (which is fun and makes a lovely professional click-shhhh noise, and is fast) and picked up 4 books at the Oxford Bookstore. One written, I think, by the Indian rep to Gangtok who Hope depicts in an iffy-light in Time Change. He (Mr. Das) also mentions Hope, critically but somewhat benevolently in his book. Also a Tagore, a basic Buddhism book and another dry Brit traveler's tales from the thirties- his trip via darjeeling up to Tibet- with no one's express permission. Must study up on Buddhism once and for all - been casting about in vagueness and tumbled terms and have to nail the positions of Buddha's hands.

Okay - need to get my ride and start the next leg. Pictures soon- they're being amassed but not yet transferred.

Love to all,

C