It's nice to be here. Albeit dark at 5 (India's squeezed its mass into a single time zone so when in the northeast...), and entirely socked in with mist and clouds since arrival so no views, not even the outlines where K2 and the rest of the range are meant to be. Still - just as nice as I'd remembered - I had good reason to keep on about this place.
But, before I begin the gushing, a few nice words about Calcutta. Feeling guilty for my scathing rap in the last posting - shouldn't write off a city based on one morning's wanderings...
What should I discover around the corner from my hotel but the sparkling Indian Museum! What luck! Had I checked a map I couldn't have happened on it as easily. It is a massive, fabulous, soup to nuts museum of everything - founded by the Asiatic Society in 1814 and - from the looks of the displays - almost entirely untouched (or dusted) since.
In its own words:"The ninth oldest regular museum of the world, INDIAN MUSEUM, Kolkata, INDIA is the oldest institution of its kind in Asia Pacific region and repository of the largest museum objects in India." And a "A multipurpose and multi disciplinary institution of national importance..."
Set around a massive courtyard, the ground floor starts you off at the very beginning - with row upon row of rocks in display cases and a fossilized tree trunk, then leads you through dioramas of India's people and tribes, then up to a taxidermist haven of stuffed beasts of the land and air, then a whole room of fish (many suspended in formaldehyde), fetuses of a human baby and an eight legged goat (also in formaldehyde), then moves on to man's creations with statues and an elaborate ivory chess set and amazing embroideries. What a trove! What a project! Took lots of photos which one of these days will get attached but the net is so slow in Darjeeling, and the process of transferring them so cumbersome, that I expect they won't come till Bangkok.
Other nice things about Calcutta - people friendly, big Ambassador taxis, had a nice sandwich at my hotel and the train for Darjeeling left on time. I have half a day there on my way out of India so will try to gather many more nice things to say. I understand their subway is a shining success so will look into...
DARJEELING -
Now for the town I have only nice words for, except that it's time consuming to reach.
Uneventful overnight train journey in an AC sleeper car surrounded by a group of chatty Spaniards. Got a jeep from New Jaipulgiri for Rs. 90 ($2) and was squashed in the way back with 4 others - middle seat also four, front seat 2 + driver. Rollicking journey up from the dreary hot West Bengal planes into the hills. British onto a winning concept with the hill stations. Up through the jungle-y brush, up through the tea terraces (including the Tazo - as in Starbucks tea - estate!) and then up over the ridge and through the tiny towns that dot your journey to Darjeeling itself. The whole hairpin road journey (about 3 hours with lots of stops for car sick passengers and people exchanges) is attended by the narrow rails of the toy train which swoop across and and run beside. That journey takes from 7 - 12 hours (a few issues) pulled by a steam engine - sadly, time too short for it this trip.
As you mount and the temperature drops, rosy cheeked Tibetans and Nepalese are added the the mix.
Big smiles from everyone and people on the whole seeming to be in a collectively fabulous mood. Hugging, laughing, holding hands, having a chai with friends, giggling - a sort of effervescence all about. The houses by the road kept tidy, flower pots of geraniums and marigolds, and less trash and more well attended to dogs than have seen yet on the trip.
Staying at the same hotel I'm always on about. The Old Bellevue (step sister of the New Old Bellevue and the Bellevue itself ). And it's the same as I remembered and had wished it to be. Now Rs. 450 a night ($10, an extra $5 for a heater) but same enormous drafty rooms with failing colonial furniture, a private front sitting (receiving?) area and a long enclosed veranda that runs the length of the hotel. Had a pot of darjeeling tea, some biscuits, and thought how nice to be back. Run by very friendly Tibetans - lots of contact with management as hot water requires half hour's notice...
A fun night last night at an impromptu disco hosted by a raucous Nepali family. Walking back to hotel from dinner and heard music from a second floor window. Paused just long enough to look up and was ushered into a mad scene of 8 family members and a young boy drinking rum and dancing to "It's Time to Disco" (a huge Bollywood hit). Group in high spirits - partying each night since Diwali. Everyone dancing with everyone and more westerners were ushered in as the night wore on. We were treated as honored guests and not allowed to sit down or have an empty glass. Have invited me back for another round tonight but not sure I can stomacher more hours of It's Time to Disco...
Today was MONASTERY day - 4 in one swoop. Architecturally all very similar (seen one Tibetan monsatery...) but nice little moments distinguishing each. Given a thorough but unintelligible tour by an older monk at one, observed full prayers (with drums and horns!) at another, watched baby monks wrestling in another. Love watching baby monks - fresh mischievous faces, grins and up to the same no good as boys their age everywhere - but in crimson robes.
Had an evening tea at a fancy hotel but basically have spent the rest of the day wandering and smiling at older Tibetan ladies and retracing steps taken in 2001. Nice to be in a familiar place, so little changed, but wish I had more time. I don't think I'll have a chance to get to Gangtok (Sikkim) but may try to do a day round trip. Entry requires an elaborate bureaucratic two step of stamps and carbons which is a waste of a morning. But the drive there along the river Teesta I remember as phenomenal. Also hoping the weather breaks - little to See now and chilly - down to 35 in the night.
Tomorrow is the Zoo and Himalayan Mountaineering Institute (where Tenzing was director of Field Training). Sadly, the Conservation Center - which houses a Snow Leopard among other wonders - is closed. The animals are actively breeding and can not be interrupted ...<
Love to all from Darjeeling.
C
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