It's all happening at the Darjeeling Zoo. Zoos very bad and we don't agree with the concept of critters in captivity but for the most part this seems a well run place (Lonely Planet authorized, a tough bunch), the creatures have ample roaming room (except for the civets - caged up in a horrible cement enclosure with a chain link front) and they're breeding successfully! What better sign of a happy group then a happy group adding to its numbers?
But before the animals, big news in Darjeeling this AM was that Kanchenjunga (world's third highest peak) showed! Oh, Majesty - peak of the gods. It's a thing of wonder, otherworldly and mesmerizing and had faded back into the clouds by mid-day. But considering it'd been hidden for (locals say) over two weeks then really, what luck. And so many photos! As if I'm the first to capture the peak with my little digital - will winnow down before I post all 30 shots...
After a walk out to viewing points - amazingly all quite empty, tourists laying low and locals probably somewhat immune to the mountain's wonders - to the Zoo!
All the animals touchable close - close like a US zoo would require insurance waivers for entry, close. One wayward kid's hand through the chain link and snap goes the Siberian. The Snow Leopards were something - a pair kept separated but one clearly preening for the other and doing all sorts of scratching and pacing. Such handsome cats - silver gray, sturdy and built low to the ground with a thick tail doubling their length.
It was the greatest hits of the big animals - even Yaks! - and all in full view and relatively active - save for the nocturnal Red Pandas who napped and stretched but kept their backs to the whistling, panda-calling crowd of school kids. Plus Tibetan Wolves, varieties of funny pheasants (with bad eyesight, and shy, but the males are spectacular) and Salamanders (apparently a dying breed). Also, first guy up was the greatest Black Bear who made himself lazily available to all takers - front and center on his rock but full of world-weary shrugs and big sighs. Could not be roused.
Funniest Zoo element: the interpretive animal area. For Rs. 5 walked through a series of dioramas featuring paper mache birds and beasts of the Himalayas with a clumsy light show illuminating first the woodpecker, then black bears at play and a dramatic sound track of the Snow Leopard on the hunt etc. Very kitsch, sort of wonderful and guide entirely earnest.
And then the Himalayan Mountaineering Institute for whirlwind tour through the routes and finds and trappings of Everest's conquerors. The evolution of the ice pick, the wonder of Tenzing big fuzzy boots, the practically un-evolved crampons, and glancing reference to the Hillary controversy. Stunning black and white portraits of the various acscendors, a mock-up of an actual high altitude tent with a mummified climber and his rations of ramen and powdered milk laid out along side. Got brochures for their climbing school - a 28 day program that includes a trek out to and camp at a glacier! Very very tempted - and less than a $100 for foreigners!! Anyone game to do it with me?
Tomorrow - if it's again clear - will do a round trip to Kalimpong. Just before the Sikkim border so requires no permit but has all the nice views en route. And then the next day I'm off and descending once more to the planes. Sad but welcome return to warmth and single layers. Freezing last night beneath two bulky quilts in my unheated room and a speed shower this morning with the 4 minutes of hot water.
Love to all everywhere - wish you could be with me.
C
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