Friday, November 19, 2004

Clean in calcutta

CALCUTTA

Finally a new-ish place, again.



Long day of various modes of transport travel. Upgraded from the mini van to a sturdy Isuzu jeep for route down, driven by brother of yesterday's driver, nicknamed "Japanese Super Star" by the fellows at the taxi stand. A brave and gentle driver - will now insist on being driven on very very bad roads, essentially single lanes or potholes that must accommodate foot, truck, bus and schoolchildren traffic (+ a toy train ), both ways - by a Buddhist. We faced no jam so irksome, no close call too hair raising, as to the rattle the Buddhist driver. He'd even stop the jeep in its tracks to chat with passing drivers and the buses and trucks bearing down on us would pause as well. No honking, no ill will - all peaceful (like).

West Bengal - the real thing - as I'd left it. The heat, fumes, trash and people doing a lot less than they were in the colder climes. Lots of lounging on charpoys, squatting to watch the world pass, spitting (because it's cool?) and hair braiding going on at sea level - India full force. Darjeeling felt live a hive of activity, the level road to the airport a giant waiting room.

Uneventful hours passed at Bagdogra airport - crustless cucumber and tomato sandwich, a final pot of Darjeeling tea and ploughed through end of my book (recommend Middlesex - almost too rich at times but wonderful, though having almost nothing at all to do with India..)

Flew Jet Airways so everything on time and tidy, until we landed in Calcutta but that's really outside the airline's jurisdiction.

Yet no warm words for this city - though you see less trash at night and bought 10 very sparkly silver bangles for Rs. 20 just now. Didn't price bangles in other cities but this seems like quite a bargain. Fascinating watching the two ladies next to me at the stand (it was bangle row) matching a whole mess of differing color and types of bangles to a bit of sari fabric. So much more elaborate than just matching up purse and shoes - they were layering different widths and colors and materials. Impressed - felt like a novice with my all 10-all-the-same package.

Planning on a huge night's sleep in my AC room. Am so well showered I feel I exude nice smells - sure internet cafe mates appreciate the transformation. Realized with some shock that I showered just once in Darjeeling, and since I wore the same clothes every day, and slept in a portion of those each night, I hadn't attended to my body in some time. We're all clean now, shaved - Bangkok will be pleased and Ruslan too : )

C - sweaty

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