Of Plovdiv

Entry to Hindliyan House, Old Plovdiv

Notes to get through, Bulgarian moments to share.

Realize I have near nothing up yet on Plovdiv - Bulgaria's second capital of classical ruins (an amphitheatre even), Byzantine churches, mosques and very handsome houses of Bulgaria's mid-18thc "National Revival Movement." (the photo depicts one).

The highlight of the city (for tourists - wouldn't make a claim for locals), is the Old Town. As one'd expect (or as I expected having read a lot and tried pitching Plovdiv to a few magazines), it's all very charming and cobbled and well preserved, cafes tucked in, history come alive, galleries and jazz festivals and all good things.

We spent half a day but, with R's extreme diligence, managed most of the highlights, a coffee and an apricot nectar, a look around the rooms of a hotel I'd recommend, and a lot of pictures.

What we didn't get to see, but which draws me back - is the Plovdiv of old, the "colorfully Ottoman" Plovdiv of which Jasper More noted critically, but I'd argue, winningly:

"Narrow streets at night pervaded by a Stygian darkness and dingy looking billiard rooms where they smoke the narghile."

Now that's the town you'd want to visit (having brushed up on vocab beforehand.)

C (in this Stygian night)