Thursday, September 8, 2005

How to stay: at a monastery

One of my guides mentioned you could spend the night at the Rila Monastery: for cheap, in a (monk-less) monk's room, linens included and with an early wake up call.

(The monastery is deep in the Rila Mountains (away from the Turks) and attracts hikers as well as sightseers. Its rooms-for-rent therefore cater to an entirely different crowd than the yoga-and-a-view monastic retreats of upstate New York.)

Intrigued, R and I plunge in to investigate. Like so many things in this country of enigmatic proverbs (In the summer bring clothes to the mountains, in winter bring food), the seeking was a journey, the answer simple but hidden, and the process utterly mystifying via English alone.

Aug. 26, Rila Monastery
Tried to track down information about staying at the monastery. No one on-hand to answer questions, no posted signs, so bothered the ticket taker behind the desk at the museum.

She directed us to Priest T___.

We seek him, eventually ending up back in the church where the candle/holy water lady starts to point him out (engaged in some matter at the altar) then, discerning that our need for a room is not immediate, answers the question herself: $15 a night.

You will find what you seek in Bulgaria but the answer may involve the lady behind the candle stand.

C

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